Mountain systems of Kazakhstan: central Tien Shan. Exploration of the Tien Shan. Expedition of Pyotr Semenov-Tian-Shansky Highest point of Tien Shan

Geographical position. Tien Shan is one of the largest mountain systems in Asia. Translated from Chinese, Tien Shan means “heavenly mountains”. The territory of Kazakhstan includes almost the entire Northern Tien Shan, parts of the Central and Western Tien Shan.
The Central Tien Shan within Kazakhstan begins from the powerful mountain node Khan Tengri (6995 m), at the junction of the borders of China, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Further it extends to the west along a series of ridges. The largest of them is Tersky Alatau. The border with Kyrgyzstan runs along its eastern branch.
The Northern Tien Shan includes the following ranges: Ketmen, Kungey Alatau, Trans-Ili Alatau, Chu-Ili Mountains and Kyrgyz Alatau.
The Western Tien Shan includes the Talas ridge and the Ugamsky and Korzhintau ridges extending from it in the southeast direction.
Karatau is located entirely within Kazakhstan - the most extreme, heavily destroyed region of the Tien Shan.
Relief, geological structure and minerals. The Tien Shan is located in the ancient synclinal belt. It is composed of metamorphosed shales, sandstones, gneisses, limestones and volcanic rocks of Precambrian and Lower Paleozoic deposits. Later continental and lacustrine deposits are concentrated on the mountain plains. They consist of clayey, sandy and moraine deposits. Main mountain systems:
Trans-Ili Alatau is the northernmost high-mountain ridge of the Tien Shan, has a length of 350 km, a width of 30-40 km, and an average height of 4000 m.
The Trans-Ili Alatau rises towards the Talgar and Chiliko-Kemin mountains (Talgar peak - 4973 m), and in the eastern direction, towards the Dalashyk and Tore tracts, it noticeably decreases (3300-3400 m). The northern slopes of the mountains are especially clearly cut by numerous rivers, which indicates the influence of the Ice Age on them.
The Trans-Ili Alatau is composed of ancient sedimentary and igneous rocks of the Lower Paleozoic - sandstones, porphyries, granites and gneisses. As a result of the formation of the Caledonian and Hercynian folds in the Paleozoic, and then repeated uplift during the Alpine mountain-building process, the mountain structure became block-folded.
An alpine type of relief has developed on the peaks. Pointed peaks alternate with intermountain plains. Some mountain areas have a stepped relief shape.
Ketmen - one of the mid-mountain ridges - is located in the eastern part of the Tien Shan. Its length within Kazakhstan is 300 km, width - 50 km, height - 3500 m. It is formed from effusive sedimentary rocks of the Paleozoic. In some places granite protrudes onto the surface of the relief. The slopes of Ketmen are dissected by the rivers of the Ili basin.
Kungey Alatau is included within the borders of Kazakhstan only on the northern slopes of its eastern part. The average height of this mountain range is 3800-4200 m. The eastern part of Kungei Alatau and Trans-Ili Alatau is separated by the valleys of the Charyn and Chilik rivers and the intermountain plain Zhalanash. The slopes of Kungei of the Northern Alatau are relatively flat and highly dissected, the peaks are leveled.
The Chu-Ili Mountains are located in the north-west of the Trans-Ili Alatau. They consist of individual hills that have undergone destruction and severe erosion (Dolankara, Kulzhabas, Kindiktas, Khantau, Alaigyr, etc.). The average height is 1000-1200 m. The highest point is Aitau, its height is 1800 m. The Chu-Ili Mountains were formed from Precambrian metamorphic rocks and thick layers of gneiss. Their surfaces are composed of sedimentary-effusive rocks of the Lower Paleozoic - shales, sandstones. The slopes of the mountains are dry, dissected by deep gorges, the peaks are leveled, to the northwest of these mountains the Betpakdala plateau is located.
The Kyrgyz Alatau is a large mountain system; its northern slope of the western part is located on the territory of Kazakhstan. Its highest peak is Western Alamedin Peak - 4875 m. In the Kazakhstan part, the height of the mountains does not exceed 4500 m. To the west they decrease. The northern slopes are subsided and destroyed mountains. The surface of the ridge is composed of sandstones, limestones and granites of the Carboniferous period. The ridge has an uneven, highly dissected surface. On the border with Kyrgyzstan, this ridge has an alpine relief type.
The Western Tien Shan within Kazakhstan begins south of the Kyrgyz ridge, beyond the Talas Valley. The Talas Alatau chain rises here (in the vicinity of the city of Taraz).
The Kazakhstani part of the Talas Alatau is the Zhabagly Mountains and the Sairam Range. The Zhabagly Mountains are divided into two mountain ranges: they form the Aksu-Zhabagly river basin (the height of the northern ridge is 2600-2800 m, the southern ridge is 3500 m). They are also composed of sedimentary and igneous rocks of the Paleozoic. The mountain slopes are dissected, bear traces of ancient glaciation, and are distinguished by an alpine type of relief.
The Tashkent Mountains consist of several mountain ranges extending southwest from the Talas Alatau. These include the Sairam Mountains (the highest point is Sairam Peak 4220 m), Koksu (the highest point - 3468 m), Ugam (the highest point 3560 m), Karzhantau (2839 m), Kazykurt (1700 m). Their geological histories are similar. All of them are composed of Paleozoic limestones. The mountain slopes are steep and the terrain is dissected. Karst phenomena are widespread.
The Karatau ridge is located on the western edge of the Western Tien Shan. It extends in a northwest direction for 400 km, its average height is 1800 m. The highest point is Mynzhylky (2176 m). To the north-west it decreases and already at the confluence of the dry beds of the Sarysu and Chu rivers, the mountain becomes a plateau. In terms of geological structure and relief, Karatau is similar to the Chu-Ili Mountains. It settles, collapses and levels out. The northeastern and southwestern mountain ranges of the Karatau ridge are separated by intermountain valleys. If its southwestern ridge was formed from Proterozoic metamorphic rocks, then the northeastern ridge was formed from Paleozoic sandstones and shales.
The valleys located between the two ridges are composed of red clay. Mesozoic and Cenozoic deposits of limestone, sandstone and clay are also widespread. The local relief was formed under dry climate conditions. There is no constant surface runoff. The slopes are dissected by large and small gorges and dry river beds.
A large reserve of minerals was found on the territory of Karatau. They are used to produce lead and zinc at the Shymkent Lead-Zinc Plant and to provide phosphorus raw materials to chemical plants in Taraz. Ores are mined by open-pit mining. Karatau is a source of building materials - gypsum, cement, etc., which gives the state large profits. The folded base of the southwestern and southern parts of the ridge formed in the Paleozoic era.
The main appearance of the Tien Shan relief was formed during mountain building in the Neogene and Anthropogen periods of the Cenozoic era. Proof of this is the earthquakes occurring in the Tien Shan. The general appearance of the mountain relief is not the same. The mountains alternate between high peaks, ridges with intermountain valleys, hilly plains, etc. The altitudinal belt of the mountains is formed in direct dependence on the geographical location and layout of the mountain ranges.

Climate, rivers and glaciers. The climate of the Kazakh part of the Tien Shan mountain system is dry, unstable, formed in winter under the influence of polar and in summer tropical air masses. It is influenced by Arctic air masses and the Siberian anticyclone. The height of mountain ranges and the variety of terrain affect the supply of heat and moisture. Therefore, in autumn and spring there are often frosts in the foothills of the Tien Shan. In the summer months, hot winds often blow - hot winds. The dry continental climate of the plains in the mountains gives way to a moderately humid continental climate. Winter is long, from October to April-May, summer is much shorter.
In Kungey and Terskey Alatau, snow sometimes falls as early as August and it becomes quite cold. Even in May-June there are often frosts. Real summer comes only in July.
The time of heaviest precipitation is May. If during this period it rains at the foot of the mountain, then snow falls on its peaks.
On the northern slopes of the Trans-Ili Alatau, even in the winter months there are often warm days. During the day the snow melts, at night the puddles become covered with ice. Such a sudden change in weather has a destructive effect on the rock.
The climate of the Western Tien Shan is influenced by the warm climatic conditions of southern Kazakhstan. Therefore, in the Western Tien Shan mountains the snow line is located higher than in the east. Here the average annual precipitation is higher - 600-800 mm. On the mountain slopes the average July temperature is +20°+25°C, at the foot of the glaciers -5°C.
Many rivers flow along the spurs of the Tien Shan Mountains and along the intermountain plains. The rivers Bolshaya and Malaya Almatinka, Talgar, Issyk, Chilik, Kaskelen originate from the northern slopes of the Trans-Ili Alatau, and the Charyn River originates from the eastern slopes of the Tien Shan. Many of them flow into the Ili River, the flow of which replenishes the water supply of Lake Balkhash.
The Chu River originates in the Kyrgyz Alatau and after crossing the border of Kyrgyzstan flows through the territory of Kazakhstan.
The Arys, Boraldai, and Bogen rivers flow from the southwestern slopes of Karatau. From the northwestern slopes there are some rivers that are fed by melted snow waters in the spring and dry up in the summer.
In the spurs of the Tien Shan there are lakes located in depressions between the mountain peaks. These lakes originate from glaciers. Below, in intermountain basins, small lakes form.
The peaks of the Tien Shan Mountains are covered with glaciers; their most powerful reserves are concentrated in the Chiliko-Keminsky mountain cluster. In the Trans-Ili Alatau there are more than 380 glaciers, which occupy mountain valleys with a total area of ​​478 km2. They are located in the upper part of the basins, where the Chilik, Issyk, Talgar, Bolshaya and Malaya Almatinka, and Aksai rivers originate. The largest glacier is Korzhenevsky (length 12 km).
In total, in the Kazakhstani part of the Tien Shan there are 1009 glaciers with a total area of ​​857 km2. Long-term melting of glaciers and heavy precipitation on hot summer days increase the influx of meltwater to lakes and rivers. This leads to water overflowing its banks and flooding begins. They cause great harm to the economy and pose a danger to human life.

Natural areas. Flora and fauna. The natural zones of the Tien Shan mountainous country vary vertically. These belts developed in direct dependence on the orographic pattern of mountain ranges and geographic location. Due to the diversity of the natural environment and the characteristic features of each mountain range of the Tien Shan, the same belts are not located vertically everywhere at the same height: in one ridge they are higher, and in another they are lower.
In the Northern Tien Shan there are four levels of altitude zones. If we count them from the very top, then they begin with glaciers, with alpine terrain covered with eternal snow. And in other ridges the belts begin at an altitude of 2600-2800 m, in others - above 3300 m. Here there are hilly hills surrounding bare rocks. Natural areas consist of subalpine and alpine meadows and high-mountain landscapes. The mountains are inhabited by leopards, mountain goats, snowcocks, and mountain eagles.
The next altitudinal zone is common in mountains of average height from 1500-1600 m to 3200-3300 m. Small-leaved and coniferous forests mainly grow on the northern slopes of the mountains. The plains are covered with meadows; on the southern slopes there are signs of steppe and meadow-steppe zones.

Spruce-forest belt.
1. Schrenk spruce.
2. Aspen.
3. Tien Shan rowan.
4. Honeysuckle.
5. Geranium is straight.
6. Siberian larch.
7. Siberian fir

Forests are found only in gorges. Animals inhabited by bears and roe deer.
The belt of low mountains is clearly visible in the Trans-Ili Alatau. Their height is 900-1100 m above sea level. They resemble the small hills of the central part of Kazakhstan. Various types of plants grow on the dark and dark chestnut soils of this territory: herbaceous, woody (pines), shrubs (meadowsweet).
The lowest altitude zone covers intermountain plains and the foothills of the mountains (they are located at an altitude of approximately 600-800 m). In these territories, signs of desert, semi-desert, and steppe zones are observed. Grains, melons and horticultural crops are grown here. Meadows are used as pastures for grazing livestock.
The altitude zones of the Western Tien Shan, compared to the Northern Tien Shan, are located 100-200 m higher. They are affected by the arid climate of Central Asia and less moisture. The types of soil and vegetation cover vary depending on the altitudinal zone. Asian and Indian plant species grow in the Aksu-Zhabagly Nature Reserve. And the animals living in the western spurs of the Tien Shan are noticeably different from the inhabitants of the Northern Tien Shan. There are more Siberian and European species of animals, and in the West there are animals similar to Mediterranean, African, and Himalayan species.
Reserves. In order to protect the nature of the Tien Shan, its flora and fauna, reserves and national parks were organized. Among them, the Aksu-Zhabagly and Almaty nature reserves and the Ile-Alatau national park occupy a large place.
Aksu-Zhabagly Nature Reserve (1927) - a repository of the pristine nature of the Western Tien Shan - is intended to protect 1,404 species of plants (including 269 rare ones), 238 species of birds, 42 species of mammals, 9 species of reptiles. The reserve is home to rare species of animals and birds: gophers, bustards, little bustards.
In the Almaty Nature Reserve (1961), 965 species of plants, 39 species of animals, and 200 species of birds grow. The snow leopard, brown bear, and deer are taken under protection.
In 1996, the outskirts of Almaty were declared the Ile-Alatau National Park. It is located on an area of ​​over 181.6 thousand hectares, on the northern slope of the Trans-Ili Alatau. Important nature conservation activities are carried out here.

1. Using the tectonic map of Kazakhstan, determine when the processes of mountain formation took place in the Northern and Western Tien Shan. Why does the Tien Shan belong to a seismic zone?
2. Using the climate map, explain the unevenness of precipitation in the Tien Shan.
3. What is the reason for the arid climate? Is it possible for the formation of a climate characteristic of the Tien Shan in its individual parts? Why, if possible?
4. Show on the map the glaciers of the Kazakhstani part of the Tien Shan. Explain the patterns of their location.
5. What explains the diversity of types of altitudinal belts in the Northern and Western Tien Shan?

Draw on a contour map a diagram of the location of the mountain ranges of the Kazakhstani part of the Tien Shan.

“Heavenly Mountains” are well known to any Chinese. This is what the Tien Shan mountain system is called in China. China is not the only country with celestial mountain ranges. The rocky formation crosses countries such as Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and Tajikistan. The ridge stretches across all of Central Asia.

Features of high mountains

The Tien Shan system has many peaks reaching heights of 6000 meters or more. The unique mountains also have an amazing ecosystem. Their appearance and views are indescribably beautiful, and the pits between them are replete with lakes. There are also fast rivers at the foot of the mountains.

The total length of the ridge is 2500 km. The entire mountain system is divided into the following areas:

• Central;
• Northern;
• Oriental;
• West;
• Southwestern.

The highest point of the ridge is Pobeda Peak. Its total height is 7439 meters. At one time, Pyotr Semenov and Thomas Atkinson were involved in research on the system. Subsequently, these figures published books about the Tien Shan mountain system, describing their travels and observations in them. They made many discoveries that helped to better understand the ecosystem of the Tien Shan range.

Famous mountain lake

Lake Tianchi is a natural landmark of China. It is located in the Tien Shan mountain system, 100 km from Urumqi. The height of the lake above sea level is 1900 meters. This is the same jade pond, the waters of which in ancient times were endowed with magical properties.

Legends say that the Goddess Sivanmu herself once washed herself in the watery surface of the lake. The reservoir is fed by mountain glaciers, so the water in it is very clean. The nature around is untouched by man and incredibly beautiful.

In summer, tourists relax near the shores of Tianchi, but the water in the lake is not suitable for swimming, as it still remains too cold even on the hottest days.

Tianchi is a lake, looking into which you can see its sandy bottom, as well as reflections of snow-white peaks.

Climate around the Chinese mountains

The arid and sharply continental climate of the Tien Shan is characterized by snowy winters and hot summers.

The higher the mountain peaks are, the more precipitation there is. Some mountainous areas are subject to strong winds. The lowlands of the mountain range receive little rainfall and are most suitable for tourism.

Wildlife of the Tien Shan

The mountain range is listed as a UNESCO heritage site. Its territory is inhabited by ferrets, hares, jerboas, gophers, mole voles, mice, rats and poisonous snakes.

Birds are represented in the form of larks, sandgrouses, eagles, bustards and partridges. Of the large animals, the ridge is favored by brown bears, lynxes, wild boars, wolves, foxes, badgers, martens, squirrels and roe deer.

Sometimes you can see a snow leopard in the highlands. This predator is listed in the Red Book, so they are a rare guest in all their habitats.

Tulips and irises grow on the slopes of the Tien Shan. Tansy trees, cedars, spruces, and aspens stand tall. These places are full of herbs and valuable medicinal plants. During the flowering period of various herbs, the mountain range turns into a colorful fairy tale.

Tien Shan and tourism

The main type of tourism on the territory of the ridge is hiking and mountaineering. Near the mountain range in Kufu there is a Confucian temple. At some bases there are ski slopes.

There are tourist areas and hotels around the mountains. There are restaurants, nearby cities have all the infrastructure a person needs.

In some places you can ride a cable car. The most popular hiking trails are equipped with parking lots for tourists. Sometimes at high altitudes there are campsites and hotels with private rooms. The Tien Shan is so vast and unpredictable that it does not tolerate a rash approach. It is best to go to the mountains with a trusted instructor, observing safety precautions, and notifying the relevant Chinese authorities about your route.

Tien Shan has stunning views, rare nature, clean air and healing energy in the atmosphere. These mountains have always been considered one of the pearls of China, of which, by the way, there are quite a few in the country. They beckoned and beckoned tourists to their heights, opening up unprecedented places for the bravest of them, etched in their memory like the best memories.

Tien Shan- majestic mountains in the heart of Central Asia. People come here to lose their minds at the beauty of the landscapes, leave a piece of their soul in the deep gorges and lose peace forever, falling in love with the dense pine forests and crystal lakes.

Tien Shan mountain system spreads from east to west across the territory, and. The northern part of the Tien Shan, marked by the Ketmen, Trans-Ili Alatau, Kungey-Ala-Too and Kyrgyz ridges, stretches from China through the territory of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Most areas are easy to reach either from Almaty(Kazakhstan) or Bishkek(Kyrgyzstan). Eastern, including the Borokhoro, Iren-Khabyrga, Bogdo-Ula, Karlyktag Halyktau, Sarmin-Ula, Kuruktag ridges - is almost entirely located in Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR) China. The Western Tien Shan ranges - Karatau, Talas Ala-Too, Chatkal, Pskem and Ugam begin in Kyrgyzstan and end in the Tashkent region of Uzbekistan. This popular tourist destination is accessible from both Kyrgyzstan, so from the capital of Uzbekistan - Tashkent. The southern and southwestern border of the Tien Shan - the Fergana Range - frames the Fergana Valley. Pearl of Kyrgyzstan - internal (Central) Tien Shan- surrounded from the north by the Kyrgyz ridge, from the south by Kakshaal-Too, from the west by the Fergana ridge, and from the east by the Akshiyrak massif. Located here Lake Issyk-Kul attracts guests from all over the world. It is easily accessible by car, bus, train and even plane.

The Tien Shan is one of the highest mountains on the planet - more than thirty peaks here exceed the six-kilometer mark. It is no coincidence that the name of these mountains is translated as “heavenly” or “divine” mountains.

An extensive chain of foothills, gentle slopes and picturesque valleys and lakes have made these mountains attractive both for living and for recreation. And thanks to trails of varying complexity and configuration, and developed infrastructure, these mountains have become a magnet for active tourism. There are routes for both light and heavy. environmental and ski tourism in winter, have an interesting holiday on the shores of lakes in summer, as well as architectural monuments for lovers ethnographic tourism.

Mountains

Climbers and athletes aim to - the highest point of the Tien Shan and the northernmost seven-thousander of the planet - and its rival - one of the most beautiful mountains on Earth. Besides them, there are still unconquered peaks in the Tien Shan, especially in its Chinese part.

Pobeda Peak(7439 m) on the border of Kyrgyzstan and China remained unmeasured and unstudied for a long time due to the fact that it was covered on all sides by mountain ranges. The height was accurately determined only in 1943. Because of the flattened and stretched peak, the mountain seems calm, but in reality, strong winds blow under the clouds, fog falls from above, and avalanches often occur. There is an opinion that Pobeda Peak is one of the most difficult seven-thousanders. Climbing this mountain requires good physical shape, equipment, but most importantly - endurance and courage. At the same time, more than a dozen athletes managed to get here, which means that Victory still goes to the brave and persistent.

known since time immemorial. The upward-looking regular pyramid with a height of 6995 meters is clearly visible from all over the area. In ancient times, it was believed that a deity, Tengri, lived at the top. Hence the name. There is one more thing - Kan-Too or "bloody mountain". At sunset, Khan Tengri turns bright red; the snow cap continues to remain crimson even when the neighboring mountains have plunged into twilight. The Khan Tengri rock contains pink marble - which is why it seems that bloody sunset rivers, sparkling and shimmering, flow down the slope.

The proximity of the state borders of Kazakhstan and China has long made the geographical affiliation of Khan Tengri controversial. As a result, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and China agreed that vertex- common property of the three states.

Athletes have been successfully climbing this six-thousander since the mid-30s of the 20th century. The classic route runs along the western edge. The weather here is unstable, severe frosts can suddenly strike, and wind can blow in, so a trip to Khan Tengri can become a strong test of strength. This only irritates climbers. There is another reason for the popularity of Khan Tengri. Geographically, when viewed from the north, the location of Khan Tengri (6995 m) and its western bridge (5900 m) to Chapaev Peak (6371 m), although two hundred meters lower, is still very similar to giants Himalayas: Everest(8848 m), its South Col(7900 m) and neighboring Lhotse Peak(8516 m), also called K2. Therefore, they also go to Kyrgyzstan to practice the Himalayan “classics”.

Those who are not confident in their form can try their hand at trekking to base camp on South Inylchek glacier. From here you can enjoy stunning views of the high-mountainous Tien Shan. By the way, Southern Inylchek is the largest of the 7.3 thousand km2 of Tien Shan glaciers. Its neighbor - Northern Inylchek is a little smaller. At the junction of two ice arms there is a mysterious “disappearing” Merzbacher Lake. Every year - in winter and summer - within a week, the lake is completely deprived of water, dumping it into flowing rivers. Ice blocks of icebergs remain at the bottom. It is difficult to get around the lake during the full-flow period - it is surrounded by rocks. The age of the reservoir, as well as the mechanisms of its formation and discharge, are not fully understood. That is why both adventurers and scientists flock here. Glaciers of the Tien Shan are also studied in connection with global warming. Changing of the climate led to their rapid melting, therefore shape of glaciers and their size is carefully measured.

The Tien Shan Mountains are a popular destination for lovers snowboard, freeride, practicing . The ski season here lasts from December to April, and the weather is mild and sunny. Ski resorts Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, and Kyrgyzstan have enough trails that differ in both complexity and configuration. There are popular destinations and new routes. Organize descent from mountains and glaciers and transfer to the top by helicopter. There is a high-mountain ski resort in Kazakhstan "Chimbulak". Resorts have made a name for themselves in Kyrgyzstan « » “Kashka-suu”, “Orlovka”, “Oruu-sai”. Known in Uzbekistan "Chimgan", "Beldersay", under construction ski resort "Amirsay". The infrastructure of such resorts is getting better every year, focusing on European experience. Advantageous difference between the Tien Shan and ski resorts in Austria, Switzerland, France, Italy the fact that there are fewer tourists here. In Tien Shan everyone can get unique ski holiday.

Gorges

Tien Shan gives chances to everyone. In Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, peaks and picturesque passes await tourists, ready to surrender to those who are persistent and believe in themselves. Here you won’t need professional equipment, just comfortable clothes and shoes, and you won’t have to waste time on long acclimatization. And don’t let the attractiveness of these places among tourists scare you - the Tien Shan is so vast and so beautiful that there are still protected corners, little-known destinations and untrodden paths here.

IN mountains of Kazakhstan popular destination - Almaty region, where it is located sports complex "Medeo", Assy-Turgen Observatory. For picturesque views, people go to the Kazakh Tien Shan by boat. Kolsai (Kulsay) lakes. Three reservoirs are hidden among the green spurs in gorge Kolsai is 10 km north of the border with Kyrgyzstan.

Uzbekistan has modest peaks (3309 m) and Okhotnichiy Peak(3099 m) are compensated by the picturesqueness of the passes Takhta, Kumbel, the beauty of the plateau Pulatkhan And mountain routes for every taste, many of which do not require serious sports training. Moreover, at the May Alpiniad they teach the basics of mountaineering. And along the shores of the local resort - Charvak Reservoir (Charvak)- There are excellent hotels and comfortable guest houses.

Directions for , horseback riding and runs on mountain bike They are also waiting in Kyrgyzstan. Incredible panoramic views open from the passes, and higher in the mountains along the Ak-Suu and Tash-Tekir rivers the rapid rivers turn into alpine waterfalls Sharkyratma, cascades of Kuldurek waterfalls, Archaly-Tor and Takyr-Tor waterfalls, as well as many other famous and unnamed, but always beautiful. Mountain ranges covered with dense coniferous forests Terksey-Alatoo And Kungey-Alatoo change the idea of ​​mountains as a kingdom of stones. A dense carpet of tall trees and herbs reigns here, and in spring the slopes are completely painted with a bright palette. Beauties Tien Shan spruces- giants with dark green needles. Another local attraction is heirloom nuts- appeared here in the Cretaceous period, more than 50 million years ago. Scattered along the spurs of the Tien Shan and concentrated in a tract in Kyrgyzstan, these trees are amazing in size and still bear fruit.

The spurs of the Tien Shan are a network of interesting gorges. Red slopes of the gorge Jety-Oguz will awaken the artist in everyone. The Fairy Tale Canyon, which reminds some of the American Grand Canyon and others of the Jordanian Petra, appears special to every visitor; the play of light and shadows creates here bizarre, different shapes and outlines each time. The most beautiful gorges Ak-su, Barskoon, And Chon-Koi-Su- this is the kingdom of herbs and turbulent mountain streams.

In the gorges Chon-Ak-Su (Grigorievskoe) And Semenovskoe in the summer they break yurt camps. Yurt- a fabric tent-house, the traditional dwelling of Asian nomads. Here you can enjoy pristine nature, take a break from the city noise, and get acquainted with the life and culture of the descendants of Tomiris, Atilla and Genghis Khan. The Kyrgyz people are sensitive to their history and cherish their customs and culinary traditions. IN yurt towns they introduce guests to traditional dresses, music, cuisine, and organize horseback riding around the area.

Gorges Chon-Koi-Su And Tamga and completely change the idea of ​​mountains. Chong-Koi-Su is the abode of ancient people who left behind numerous drawings - petroglyphs talking about their life and the animals that lived here. And Tamga received its name (from Turkic - “sign”) thanks to ancient Buddhist symbols, which the local religious community carved on stones a long time ago.

The gorges will be of interest not only to those who love, but also to those who like to tickle their nerves on mountain rivers. Ideal for alloy And rafting rapid Angren, Akbulak, Ili, Koksu, Kyzylsu, Maidantal, Naryn, Oygaing, Pskem, Tarim, Chu, Ugam, Chatkal and others. They pass through many rapids, only in patches they emerge onto the plains, and in the upper reaches and lowlands they go along narrow rocky canyons.

Valleys

As a direction for camping, tracking, paragliding high mountain valleys and pastures are suitable jailoo (jailu). This is a protected world of lush herbs, mineral springs and crystal lakes.

One of the largest and most famous. Triangular crystal, clamped in the vice of the Kyrgyz ridge, Suusamyr-Too and Dzhumgal-Too, a magnet for lovers extreme And "black" holiday. In winter they go horse riding here. skiing And snowboarding, including on wild roads, with transfer from a helicopter to mountain peaks, covered with dry and crumbly “Tien Shan” snow. Enjoying the summer trekking tours from tent camp or fly to paragliding, capturing the beauty of the valley from a bird's eye view.

Valley - majestic alpine meadows overlooking the picturesque Arabel high plateau. This lake region was formed thanks to glaciers. There are 50 reservoirs of different sizes located here. However, the most picturesque is the crystal lake Kashka-Suu, like a mirror reflecting the skyward mountain peaks.

Valley Manzhyly-Ata known not only for its picturesque landscapes. Pilgrims and lovers of relaxation at mineral springs come here. Here are located Stone Age petroglyphs, Scythian burial grounds, medieval ruins And Buddhist inscriptions. According to ancient legend, Mother Deer lived here, giving rise to the Kyrgyz Bugu tribe. And the Manzhyly-Ata valley was named in honor of the Muslim preacher, Sufi and miracle worker who spread Islam here. Numerous mineral springs gushing out of the ground keys, according to evidence, help to heal from diseases.

Alpine lakes

There is also a place for quiet in the Tien Shan beach summer holiday.

It ranks seventh among the deepest lakes in the world. This crystalline surface, framed by mountain ranges, is the pride of the Tien Shan. The name translates as “hot lake”. Although the temperature in the district in winter drops below zero, and the reservoirs are covered with ice, the brackish, warm Issyk-Kul remains without ice cover all year round. The first mention of Issyk-Kul was left by Chinese travelers in the 2nd century BC. They called it “Zhe-Hai” - “warm sea”.

Issyk-Kul today - resort, active all year round. In summer people come here to soak up the water - there are more sunny days here than in Black Sea, and the infrastructure - beaches and piers, hotels, shops and restaurants - offer a choice for every taste and budget. In winter, lovers of extreme recreation go to the outskirts of Issyk-Kul - skiers, snowboarders, freeriders.

Not far from Issyk-Kul you can even experience something that is possible only in one place on the planet - on Dead Sea in Israel. Kyrgyzstan has its own dead lake- Kara-Kul, located 400 meters from Issyk-Kul. The salinity of the water is more than 70 percent or 132 grams per liter - enough to have a rejuvenating and healing effect, and also allow the vacationer to “lie” on the surface of the water without making any effort.

Lovers outdoor recreation, and birdwatchers, interested ecotourism, will appreciate the numerous high-mountain reservoirs of Kyrgyzstan.

hidden among the green western spurs of the heavenly mountains, it begs to be depicted on an artist’s canvas. Located at an altitude of 1878 meters above sea level in the protected area of ​​the same name, Sary-Chelek It is one of the deepest reservoirs of the Tien Shan - in some places to the bottom of 220 meters. However, the water is so clear that in the smooth mirror you can see what is at the very bottom. The lake got its name, translated from Kyrgyz as “yellow bowl,” thanks to the motley blanket of bright flowers and shrubs reflected in the water.

The green western spurs of the Tien Shan are replete with numerous brothers of the bright Sary-Chelek. Small pearl reservoirs are hidden in the northern part of the Chatkal ridge. Calm Lake Aflatun, lost among the green spurs, and like stones strung on a thread of a high mountain river, lake Kara-Tokoy- the lower one, famous for its underwater forest, and the upper one, squeezed in the grip of the gorge of the same name.

A different landscape opens from the protected shores of lakes Chatyr-Kul and (Songkyul). These reservoirs of the Central Tien Shan, located at an altitude of more than three kilometers, are sandwiched by gray stone peaks in tectonic depressions among flat high-mountain valleys and green pastures of jailu. Both are covered with ice in the winter. And in spring, summer and autumn, birds flock here from all over Eurasia. Ideal destinations for mountain tourism, lovers of pristine nature and its feathered inhabitants.

Historical monuments

Tien Shan would not be Tien Shan without the people who left their mark here. Evidence that these regions have been inhabited since time immemorial remains in the tract Saimaluu-Tash or Saimaly-Tash (“Patterned stones”). Here in the highlands gorge near Kazarman More than 107 thousand drawings carved on rocks dating back to the 2nd-3rd millennium BC were discovered. Similar artifacts dating back to the 3rd-1st millennium BC. uh found on Chumysh rocks on the spurs of the Fergana ridge. “Younger” and smaller-scale rock galleries are also found in the Issyk-Kul, Naryn and Talas regions of Kyrgyzstan. Stone paintings tell about the life of the peoples who lived here and depict the beauty of nature.

Those interested in history will appreciate that in the Tien Shan, along with Muslim ones, artifacts of local and Turkic beliefs, Buddhism, and Nestorian Christianity have been preserved.

In the Middle Ages, the Tien Shan was a landmark on the caravan routes from Europe to China. The ruins of the fortified settlement remained silent witnesses of that era. Koshoi-Korgon and also mysterious caravanserai Tash-Rabat. Situated among picturesque mountains, they continue to attract attention with unanswered questions.

Legends of Tien Shan

Kyrgyz Olympus
The ancient Turks and Mongols revered the god Tengri as the organizer of the world, along with the goddess Umai and Erlik. They called him the deity of the upper zone of the world and believed that he wrote the destinies of people, measured out a term for everyone and determined who would be the ruler of people. Khan Tengri Peak was considered a kind of Olympus - the home of the supreme deity.

Tien Shan and Issyk
Beautiful legend talks about the origin of names Tien Shan And Issyk-kul. Allegedly, in ancient times, when there were no mountains here yet, the Tien Shan shepherd, strong as a hero, and his beautiful and modest wife Issyk lived in the green valleys. And their descendants would have praised their happiness for centuries, but only the evil sorcerer Khan Bagysh took a fancy to the faithful companion of the Tien Shan. The sorcerer's minions kidnapped blue-eyed Issyk in front of frightened children. In the evening, Tien Shan returned and did not find his wife in the yurt. He took his bow and arrows and headed towards the sorcerer's palace. Bagish sent countless troops against him, but the shepherd scattered them all in righteous anger. The sorcerer got scared, turned into a giant eagle and lifted Issyk into the blue heights in his claws. And he cast a spell on the hero so that he would turn into stone. The mighty Tien Shan felt his legs and arms grow numb and heavy and decided on a last desperate attempt - he put an arrow on his bow and fired. A well-aimed arrow pierced the eagle's wing. Bagish released the desired beauty from his claws. Out of anger, he cursed her too, wishing that Issyk would become water and go underground, not reaching anyone. Tien Shan rushed to catch his wife in time. The shepherd was petrified, turned into mighty mountains, and his wife became a crystal lake. The children turned into swift mountain rivers, remaining forever with their epic parents.

Scheme map of the Eastern part of the central Tien Shan

Khan Tengri and the Sredinny Range from the slopes of Pobeda Peak. Photo: RISK online

Tien Shan is a Chinese word meaning "Heavenly Mountains". It is a great mountain system located mainly in Kyrgyzstan and the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR) of China. Its northern and distant western ranges are in Kazakhstan, while the southwestern part reaches the borders of Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Inside the territory of the former USSR, the Tien Shan mountains stretch in an arch more than 1200 km long and 300 km wide. They border in the north with the Ili Valley and the Fergana Depression in the south, while the eastern outskirts seem to dock with the Alai ridge of the Gissar-Alai mountain system.

All Tien Shan ranges, excluding the meridional one, run from west to east and consist of four mountain ranges divided naturally: Central Tien Shan, Northern and Western, as well as Inner Tien Shan. The northern slopes of the ridges are cut by gorges of mountain river valleys and reach depths of 2,000 - 4,000 meters; they are short and shallow. The dominant height of the peaks is 4000 - 5000 meters, and the passes pass between the heights of 3500-4500 m. The climate is typically Central Asian and with the height of precipitation it becomes more and more - up to 900-1000 mm per year on the western slopes of the Fergana Valley.

Tien Shan has significant ice cover: 7,787 glaciers, the largest is South Inylchek, 60 kilometers long.

It has several regions: Trans-Alai Alatau, Inylchek, Kyrgyz, Kokshaal-too, Tengri-Tag, Tersky-Ala-too, Talas Ala-too, Fergana, etc.

Tourist and mountaineering exploration of the “Soviet” part of the area began in the 30s, by a fairly large number of groups, and by and large has not been completed to this day. True, it is impossible to say that the area has been “settling in” all these years - and this is not only due to the Great Patriotic War, during the USSR the area was limited in access (issuing passes to the border strip took several months), and sometimes it was simply closed for access for 5-10 years. Therefore, if you study reports, both tourist and mountaineering, you can determine the “windows” when access to the area opened. Today, getting there is not a problem; you can register yourself (registration, issuing passes), or again through any travel agency.

Over the years of development in the area, dozens of passes have been climbed, the main peaks have been climbed, and many difficult routes have been laid to many of the peaks. Tourists covered all the ridges of the region with passes, while the zone of mountaineering interests is mainly concentrated in the Tengritag, Kokshaaltau, Meridional ridges, rare ascents today are made in the Saryjaz and Inylchek ridges. I’ll try to describe these ridges a little, assessing the difficult passes and peaks, moving from north to south.

Entrances, approaches, decoration

Unfortunately, it is not yet possible to conduct “end-to-end” hikes – starting in Kyrgyzstan and ending in China, or vice versa. You can only jump a little in one direction or another through a couple of passes. Therefore, for now these parts of the districts should be considered separately.

From Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan there are two highways for entering the region. From Kyrgyzstan - through the city of Karakol (formerly Przhevalsk) along a decent road to the Semenov, Mushketov, Yu. Inylchek glaciers (to the Maidaadyr outpost), Kaindy. From Kazakhstan – through the regional center Narynkol to the upper reaches of the river. Bayankol (the road ends at the Zharkulak mine), from where it’s a 12-15 km walk to the Bayankol glacier system. Mountain hikes generally begin and end at these points. But if there are no special restrictions on funds, you can use a helicopter - for small groups as a companion (i.e., for transfer), for large groups - you can order and pay for a separate board. Today the situation is such that the area is served only by 2 Kyrgyz helicopters. (I won’t be surprised if there will be one next year, because last season one burned out, but I really hope that there will be a second one). The flight is carried out from two points - Karkara (Kazakhstan, through Kazbek Valiev), the Maidaadyr outpost (Inylchek river, Tien Shan Travel, Vladimir Biryukov). There are several more camps serving clients in South Inylchek, besides Valiev and Biryukov there are three more. The first two plus one more are located at the confluence of Yu. Inylchek with the Zvezdochka glacier, two more are on the opposite side, under the slopes of Gorky. In Northern Inylchek, only Kazbek Valiev’s camp now operates (previously there were two). But according to V. Biryukov, this summer the Kyrgyz camp (Tien Shan Travel company) will also begin operating in Northern Inylchek. Through any of these companies you can visit the area, choosing more suitable prices. Over the years, I have used the services of Kazbek Valiev, the Dostuk-Tracking company (Bishkek, Shchetnikov N.). In recent years, I have been using the services of Vladimir Biryukov’s Tien Shan Travel company, also because I have many friends there.

Depending on which check-in method you use - through a company or on your own - transport prices will vary greatly. I don’t see the point of describing them here - you can look up their prices through the company on their websites, but I simply don’t know the prices for self-hired transport - I haven’t used it for too long. As for the helicopter, I think these are more stable numbers. Today, a helicopter hour in Kyrgyzstan costs $1,800, and an approach from Karkara or Maidaadir costs $150 per person. When flying, for example, from Maidaadyr, you can scatter drops in 2-3 places during the flight hour and land at the beginning of the route (in 2001, using a helicopter, we delivered drops to Southern and Northern Inylchek, and landed ourselves at the bottom of the Mushketov glacier , thus excluding traffic along river valleys from the route).

If we talk about the most common way to get there today, it’s by car from Bishkek through Karakol to Maidaadyr, then by helicopter to South or North Inylchek, or on foot (then you can drive a little further by car, or you can hire horse-drawn transport and use it to get almost to the Yu. Inylchek glacier). The second option is from Alma-Ata to Karkara, from where by helicopter to the same place - that is, to the South or North of Inylchek. People visit other places to start routes less often. And ascents are mainly carried out from the listed camps (a rare exception, which has been repeated more than once in recent years, is ascents to the Marble Wall from the Bayankol glaciers).

You should probably know that to visit the area through any state, you need to obtain registration (if entry/exit is carried out through different states, then in each of them) and passes to the border zone (for now, the expected complication of issuing passes has resulted in additional payment). All this is done in different places (registration with the police, passes with the border guards), so I prefer to use the services of companies.

On the Chinese side, things are somewhat different. In order to enter the area, you must obtain a military permit ($650 per group), a permit to visit the Tomur National Park (another $650), and insurance for all participants ($72/person). So far, today I know only one tour operator who undertakes to arrange all this. And naturally, payment for operator services will also be added here.

To enter the region for the first time, we used the traditional route to the Kashgar Mountains at that time - Moscow-Bishkek-Osh (plane) - Irkeshtam checkpoint (car) - Kashgar (car) - Aksu (train) - village. Talaq (machine). This journey took 6 days. We made our way back in exactly the same way, but it took 4-5 days. The second time we went directly to China, Moscow-Urumqi-Aksu (plane) - Talak (car). This option took us 2 days, and today is the optimal route to the area. But if we talk about departure from Moscow, there is currently no direct flight to Urumqi, so you have to fly with a transfer. From the nearest cities, planes fly to Urumqi from Novosibirsk, Almaty, Bishkek. Therefore, you can travel by plane from any of these cities. Probably, you can also calculate the option of visiting these cities by train, and then by plane. The entire route by train probably does not make sense, although it is theoretically possible. Maybe this option will one day become acceptable - there is persistent talk about the construction of a railway connection from Kyrgyzstan to China (Kashgar). Considering the speed at which the Chinese are building, I would not be surprised if such a road appears within a year or two after the decision is made. In the meantime, it would be good if a road through Irkeshtam was built - maybe the drive through Kyrgyzstan, especially to the Kashgar Mountains (Kongur - Muztag-Ata) would become quite convenient.

From the village of Talak, where the border post is located, you can also drive by jeep in different directions - probably to the Temirsu glacier. The path known to us, used in all expeditions (by the Chinese, the Japanese, and us), leads towards the Kokyardavan pass (you can almost get to the pass). Then a caravan of horses is organized (although it is also possible to start on foot) and after 30-35 km along the river valley. In Chonterex you can go to the tongue of the Chonteren glacier, where all the expeditions established a base camp. The route can be covered on horseback in 1.5-2 days.

In the neighboring valley - Kichiktereksu - there is a coal mining plant. The valley itself is more extensive than Chonterexu, with many small settlements. Having gone down a fairly decent path to the plant, you can then go further by car. By the way, the trail here is really good, but it’s easy to lose it, which is what we did from time to time. In the upper reaches of the river (in a section of 10 kilometers) it quite often branches, and the chosen path may simply turn out to be a dead end (for example, to a summer camp). The main trail, however, goes 300-400 meters up or down the slope, which is quite difficult to guess. Sometimes local residents helped us get back on the trail, for whom we seemed to act as a visiting zoo. To the river valley Kichikterex can also be visited at the start of any hike.

We did not try other check-in options. One of them is along the Muzart River, along which the road rises quite far, and you can get approximately to the level of the Tugbelchi glacier. There are probably other options for arrival, but other expeditions have yet to get acquainted with them. There are a lot of dirt roads in these places, only local residents know them well (a simple example - our tour operator knew nothing about the coal mining plant and the road there - otherwise we would have immediately planned one of the ending points of the hike there.

In the summer, the combined team of the MAI Tourist Club and the Citadel State Tourist Complex (Brest) visited the mountains of the eastern part of the Central Tien Shan. Despite the fact that not all the original plans were realized, the campaign was a success. We got to know each other and became fully immersed in the area, passed several beautiful passes and climbed the three highest peaks of the Tien Shan. Below you can see a photo report about our trip.

I’ll tell you a little about what we wanted and what happened. The acclimatization stage went exactly according to plan. It included passing two observation passes of the Seven Muscovites (1B, 4130) and Chontash (2B, 4570) and the first ascent to the top of the Explorers of the Tien Shan (4490). Then, going out to the South Inylchek glacier, we climbed up it and through the Komsomolets glacier climbed out to the long-unvisited Schmidt Plateau pass (3B, 5270). From its saddle we traversed the untrodden peak 5650 and, ahead of schedule, descended through the Proletarsky Tourist glacier to the MAL on South Inylchek.

The next stage we planned to go through three high-altitude traverses. But due to problems with my back and the team’s primary desire to climb seven-thousand-meter peaks, they refused to continue the planned route. Later we switched to individual ascents in the upper reaches of the Southern Inylchek, sometimes dividing into subgroups for convenience. As a result, we climbed through the Torn Glacier to the Eastern Col of Khan Tengri (5800) and attempted to climb the mountain. Western Tent (6511), climbed Khan Tengri (7010) and Pobeda (7439), climbed the western peak of Military Topographers Peak (6815).

The journey from the base camp to the Semenovsky glacier takes 2.5 – 3 hours. The tents of the first camp are not located directly at the confluence with South Inylchek, but a little lower, sheltered from large avalanches from Khan Tengri and Chapaev Peak behind a rocky spur.

Feeling some euphoria from setting out on the route, we got carried away and talked until late in the evening. The blood pressure also made it difficult to fall asleep. As a result, we passed out at ten, and at midnight we got up for an early passage of the narrow and dangerous section between the peaks of Chapaev and Khan Tengri, popularly called the bottle.

The evening snowfall covered all traces. The ascent began almost in the dark. The flashlight only captured 50 meters of the glacier in front of our feet. We walked straight up, focusing on the silhouettes of large mountains. I was on Khan Tengri 8 years ago, but now everything has changed. Instead of deep snow there is firn dusted with snow. And we mostly descended along the opposite side.

Before the start of the dangerous place, a bunch of us overtook us. One of the men in its composition was on Hana last year and had a general idea of ​​where the standard ascent route was.

The surrounding landscape brightened and the mountains woke up.

On the way to the neck of the bottle, an avalanche started from Chapaev Peak, went lower, but kept us in suspense and covered us with snow dust.

A little higher we saw a tent with a crazy man who decided to put it in such a place.

Tent - point in the center of the frame


Someone's coming down

Camp 5300 is located just above the icefall of the Semenovsky glacier. Considering yesterday’s gatherings, we couldn’t resist the desire to boil some tea there and take a nap for an hour.

Upper reaches of Southern Inylchek and Military Topographers Peak (6873)


The rest invigorated us a little and we climbed to the bergschrund under the Western Col of Khan Tengri relatively fresh. Here, at an altitude of 5800, the tents of the assault camp are located. The further route along the western edge of Khan Tengri is almost entirely covered with stationary railings. There are also small overnight sites at 6350 (for one tent), 6400 (for two tents), at 6600 (for 1 tent), in the area of ​​the summit.

Compared to 2009, now most of the tents at 5800 are located in a wide, buried berg under the saddle, and caves are being dug out there. It's less windy and safer here. 8 years ago, a giant cornice flew off from the saddle to the north, almost from under our feet, breaking off right along the path with poles.

A simple ascent to Khan Tengri could not provide normal acclimatization. Therefore, we decided to climb to 6400 with bivouac equipment, set up a tent, go to the top, and then descend and spend the night. Maybe in terms of load, such a plan was not entirely ideal, since it would have been smarter to first spend the night at 6400, and then go down the mountain the next day. But we were afraid of the worsening weather that the forecast promised. We decided to make the most of it on our first trip.

We packed up the camp and at about 3 o’clock in the morning we went up from 5800. I was lucky to pass a group of foreign climbers at the start, and Misha stood behind them and subsequently went around them one by one. On the way to 6400 I overtook several people whom I didn’t see again on the way to the top or on the descent; they probably turned back.

In 3 hours I climbed to the site at 6400, where there was already one tent. The weather was unpleasant, visibility was limited, and the wind was gusty. Therefore, I did not dare to set up our tent alone and started leveling and completing the site. Together with Misha, who soon arrived, we set up and stretched out the tent, in which we left our things and equipment.

It must be said that climbing Khan Tengri along the classic route from the Western Col is not entirely sporty. An almost continuous thread of railings allows you to climb and descend from the top in almost any weather. Modern equipment reliably protects even from strong winds, and the lack of visibility deprives you of pleasure, but does not interfere with the ascent. So we, naturally, remembering the “cold - wind” from Vladimir Stetsenko, decided that there was no reason not to go upstairs.

If up to 6400 I felt quite fresh even with a backpack, then after continuing the climb lightly, I noticed that the pace had dropped. Misha, on the contrary, increased his strength and went a couple of pitches ahead. I was trying to find motivation to climb to the top, where I had already been before, along a marked route and in the absence of visibility. I persuaded myself to continue climbing for the sake of further acclimatization. In front of the “trough” I caught up with Misha, who was standing in line on the railing.

We clearly lacked acclimatization, since the previous climb to the top was the traverse of the Volynka peak (5650) with an overnight stay at 5300. I looked at the people ahead, walking noticeably slower and still resisting and continuing to move upward. And I understood that if they were patient, then I could be patient a little.

We reached the top together with the Almaty residents. The climb from 6400 took about 5 hours. Physically and psychologically it was difficult for him. A couple of weeks later we went to Pobeda more easily and with much more pleasure. I dragged the heavy DSLR upstairs in vain, taking only a couple of frames. We never saw Northern Inylchek behind the clouds.

Misha on top

We went down to the tent at 6400, where we had lunch and settled down to rest. The forecast was promised to be negative, but we did not deny ourselves a high overnight stay.

We woke up at one in the morning and hurried downstairs. Having passed the bottle before sunrise, we were at South Inylchek at 5 am.

On the left is Pogrebetsky Peak (6527)

Meanwhile, our main team climbed the Eastern saddle of Khan Tengri through the icefall of the Torn glacier. And having attempted to climb the Western Tent, in bad weather conditions, she was forced to turn around and descend to the camp on the saddle. And there was no time left to try again, since the deadline for our meeting at MAL was approaching.

Vazha Pshavela (6918) and Nehru (6742)

Khan Tengri (6995)

Having reunited with the team, we began to jointly make further plans. It became clear that we no longer had time to continue the originally planned route and finally go to Pobeda. As a result, we decided that going to individual peaks would be easier and more interesting. Moreover, at that moment there was still hope for a possible traverse of Victory.

The guys, who had not been to Khan, decided to go there. And Vanya, who was already a snow leopard, joined Misha and me, and we planned a walk to the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka glacier.

Here, in the Inylchek area, the main attention is focused on Khan Tengri. This year, more than a hundred people climbed from the south alone. Some more people are trying to climb Pobeda Peak. The rest of the interesting and easily accessible peaks, which have a not so attractive height, are deprived of attention. Climbers visited many six-thousanders of the Meridional Ridge 1-2 times. The area of ​​the Komsomolets, Shokalsky, Putevodny and other glaciers is full of untrodden five-thousanders. The third highest peak of the Tien Shan, the Military Topographers Peak (6873 m), is climbed extremely rarely, by 1-2 groups every 5 years.

Since we had no descriptions, we decided with our subgroup to climb to the upper reaches of Zvyozdochka and there decide what to do next. We planned to choose between Military Topographers and Eastern Victory, depending on what we saw.

The path to the upper reaches of Zvezdochka leads along a marked path to the icefall at the turn of the glacier. Then it passes by the first Victory camp under the pedestal of the Abalakova route and further up under the walls of Eastern Victory.

From left to right is Abalakova's route

In the center of the frame is the western peak of the Military Topographers peak

There are many lakes in the central part of Zvezdochka. The glacier is not very broken. A small icefall opposite the spur of Shipilov Peak runs along the right side of the glacier. To avoid falling through, after lunch we put on snowshoes and continued walking in them.

Western peak of Military Topographers Peak (6815)

Avalanche from the Victory Balcony. To the right is Zhuravlev's route

The rock walls of Eastern Pobeda are impressive in their steepness and scale. The sun practically does not illuminate them. Of the four routes laid out here, not one is repeated.

The day before, about 4 kilometers did not reach the Chonteren pass, located between Eastern Victory and Military Topographers. In the morning Misha complained of feeling unwell. Probably I haven’t fully recovered after Khan Tengri, and yesterday’s 9-hour trek was not easy. We approached the pass takeoff, but did not climb any higher. Because they felt that the rest would be much more productive downstairs.


The next day, my condition and mood are excellent. We climbed Chonteren practically on foot, hanging 50 meters of railings at the top of the takeoff. There are no big difficulties on the Chinese side either. Therefore, the tourist category of the pass 3B is very conditional.

Shipilov Peak (6201)

The advantage of the route to the top of Eastern Pobeda (6762 m) is that from the saddle of the pass (5500 m) it is easy to walk and given the current snow conditions, it can be walked in a day. We, having some time left, decide to go to the Military Topographers peak located further.

Behind is the ridge to Eastern Victory

A narrow cornice ridge goes straight from the pass in the direction of the Military Topographers Peak. Walking along it in a small group is a pleasure.


Higher up, the ridge widens, turning into a snowy slope, which leads to a small plateau. On the edge of the plateau there is a group of picturesque ice seracs. Vanya dubbed them Julia’s, since he often saw similar relief forms in Anatoly’s reports. Large pieces of ice break off from the edge of the plateau and gradually slide into the abyss. While lunch was being prepared, we had time to walk and climb a little.

Victory Array


Walls of Military Topographers Peak

Between the seracs, Victory Peak

The camp was established at an altitude of 6050 under the slopes leading to the western ridge of the Military Topographers. While the guys were setting up the tent, I managed to climb up and photograph a little of the mountain. The entire traverse path of Valery Khrishchaty’s team from Pobeda to Khan opened before our eyes.

The tops of the legendary traverse in one panorama





Panorama from Pobeda to Khan

The plans to traverse the summit were postponed until future hikes, since Misha, motivating the decision by preserving his strength for the Victory, refused to accompany us on the ascent.

In the morning new adventures awaited us. Around 5 o'clock it shook a couple of times. As it turned out later, these were echoes of the seven-magnitude Chinese earthquake. Where there had been a small bergschrund the day before, a 3-meter ice wall appeared. Our entire plateau subsided, and deep ice craters formed on the slope. There were landslides here and there. As the guys from our second subgroup, who were descending from Khan at that moment, later said, avalanches simultaneously descended from Chapaev and Khan-Tengri, and a cloud of dust flew out to Inylchek. And just a few minutes before they managed to leave the Semenovsky glacier around the corner.

During the evening reconnaissance, the first rock gendarme of the western ridge of the Military Topographers seemed quite difficult. To pass it, you would have to hang a railing. Therefore, we decided to climb the ridge in a new way, emerging above the gendarme.

South view

There was a decent amount of snow on the slopes. Sometimes there were spots of crust, but mostly we had to follow the path and not forget about the avalanche danger. It was hard. Initially, we took with us an additional rope and some set of rock equipment, and left it all on the shelf. Because we realized that if we encounter serious technical difficulties, then in the current state we will not be able to reach the summit. And whatever is easier, we will climb in a bunch.

Upper reaches of Southern Inylchek

From the point of access to the ridge under the rocky rise to the second gendarme there is a long section with cornices. We were more confused not by them, but by the real chances of leaving with an avalanche on the steep cliffs of the Chinese side. At some point, they even tied the entire length of the rope so that they could alternately release each other and tuck it behind the protruding stones.

The weather was not conducive to the ascent, but did not force us to turn around. Hoods and windproof masks protected us from the gusty wind. Having passed the cornices, we came under a rocky gendarme. The lower part was climbed. I climbed higher, straining a little in the fireplace, and threw the rope to Vanya.

Above the gendarme, the crest widens and becomes simple. But the wind and deep snow made it difficult to walk. We climbed the Western peak of Military Topographers (6815 m) in the absence of visibility. On the tour they found a note from Kirikov-Oleynik-Parshin dated 2005, who in turn removed Sergei Lavrov’s note from 1999.

According to the navigator, there were still 400 meters and 60 in altitude left to the Main Peak, but without visibility there was no thought to go there.

It cleared up on the descent

We went down to camp 6050, where Misha greeted us with amazing borscht at 18:30 in the evening.


In the morning, we got up early, went down to Zvezdochka and ran to the base camp, where we were already met by the guys who had successfully climbed Khan Tengri.




In the evening, an Iranian woman, whom the guys actually saved on Khan, came to talk to us. According to stories, during an overnight stay at 6400, at 8 pm she went down to the shelf next to their tents and remained sitting. The girl no longer had the strength to continue the descent. Initially, she refused the invitation to go into the tent, as well as the offer of tea. But in the end they put her in a sleeping bag, warmed her up, gave her something to drink, and sent her down in the morning in normal condition.

After resting for a couple of days, we began to prepare for Victory. The weather had ended by this time. After August 10, there were not heavy but frequent snowfalls, and winds began to blow overhead. We understood that there could be no permanent bad weather and a window would definitely appear, we just needed to figure out the exit to Vazha Pshavela by that moment. And from there it’s a day to the top. Part of the team also didn’t want to give up the idea of ​​a traverse so easily, so they took an additional arc tent upstairs, all planning to live in a tent together.

There are seven of us left from the team. Zhenya flew to work after attempting to climb Western Shater, and Maxim after climbing Khan Tengri. And three guys from Novosibirsk and Moscow joined us. We decided to climb the mountain autonomously, but climb together, trying to help each other.

Dmitry Grekov gave us a radio station and further helped us by supporting and reporting the current weather forecast. This attitude was very pleasant, especially since we were not Ak-Sai’s clients.

While the weather was bad in the Tien Shan, the people, believing that the time had not come, acclimatized to the Khan, rested and socialized in the base camp. In the end, when everyone was ready to go upstairs, the weather was turned off. Before us, three people climbed through Vazha, who had cracked the mountain this season, and four guys from the Novosibirsk team completed the traverse, ascending the Zhuravlev route and descending the classic route.

We went up on August 14, believing that we would paddle up to Vazha just in time for the possible window of the 18th-19th.


The first obstacle on the way to the top is the icefall of the Dikiy Pass. Unlike the further route, every year the first climbers on the mountain install new railings. The icefall itself is normal. Above a steep step of one and a half ropes, everything is done on foot. The approach under hanging faults and ice under the beginning of the railing is dangerous. Therefore, it is advisable to go through the icefall either early in the morning or in the late afternoon, when the peak of solar activity is behind.

Having left the base camp after lunch, we stopped for the night about a kilometer from the icefall. It’s scary to stop closer because of possible avalanches and landslides from the slopes of Pobeda.

Having passed the icefall in the morning, we walked through snow fields to a small trough on the Dikiy Pass. While lunch was being prepared, stragglers arrived. Since the weather was not promised for tomorrow, the goal that day was to climb to the caves at 5800, so that there could comfortably wait for it to improve.


View of the Western Col of Khan Tengri

Exit to the Wild

The slopes above Dikiy are gentle, but overloaded with snow and are prone to avalanches. Areas of deep snow alternate with firn boards. We put on beepers and snowshoes. Trying not to cut the slope, we went up, cutting a path.

In the center of the frame is the traverse of the Volynka peak we completed (5650)

According to the information we have, two caves for three and six people were dug on the slopes. Having reached the lower one at an altitude of 5700, which later turned out to be smaller, we expanded it to seven people. Three guys from the parallel group went to spend the night above.

By evening the weather deteriorated and it was very snowy. While we were expanding our cave, we met a group of people descending from above. The weather prevented them from reaching the summit. To the question: “Where are you from?”, Ilya, who led the group, answered: “From hell!”

At night they dug out the entrance to the cave a couple of times. The revenge continued throughout the next day. Our radio quickly went dead. Left without weather and without a forecast, we began to try to get information via satellite phone. In response to an SMS with a request, one of our friends wrote that heavy rains were expected on Pobeda, another sent a long text in English, copied from the site, saying that everything would be very bad, but not without specifics. We were interested in specific figures on cloud cover, precipitation and wind strength.

Seeing what was happening on the street and having no perspective, the idea of ​​traverse the summit was finally abandoned, switching to radial ascent. We left the extra things and an additional tent in the cave and, towards lunch on August 17, when it was a little clearer, we went up.

There are several rock belts on the Vazhi ridge from 5800 to the peak of 6918. The first is at altitudes 5800 - 6000, the second 6100 - 6250 and a couple more small areas above 6400. There are traditional places for a tent at 6100 under the protection of small stones, and at 6400. There are no places protected from the wind. In case of heavy snowfalls, rocks at 6100 and 6400 also do not fully protect from avalanches. In fact, a small arc tent can be placed almost anywhere, tearing down part of the slope. You will have to tinker with the area for the tent.


The rocky sections of the ridge are secured with railings. But they are not updated and are only sometimes duplicated in sections by enthusiasts with newer ropes. In some places the rope is broken or without braid. The rocks are simple, so it’s better to climb on your own, securing yourself with a jumar.


In the evening we went to the sites at 6400. Three guys walking in parallel found a ready place for their arc redfox. We began to expand the area nearby for our large tent. After some time, they came across a human body, as it later turned out, perhaps it was Alexander Popov, buried here in 2012 by an avalanche. Having buried it with snow, we went 50 meters to the side and dug a place on the slope.

We are building a site at 6400

The bodies of those killed in the Victory are a little tense. It is clear that there is simply no strength or opportunity to go down. But it’s one thing when a person is wrapped in an awning and a tent and conventionally buried off to the side of the path. Another thing, when at 7250, a dead man is simply sitting in the trough under the gendarme. Wrapping it in a tent is not that difficult, but you need to know about it in advance and have the tent with you. On a frozen ridge, you can’t just bury it in the snow and you won’t take off your powder coat.

Nehru peak behind